TT 52Q 
.W35 
1914 
Copy 1 



WEIDEL'S INSTRUCTION BOOK. 




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WEIDEL'S INSTRUCTION BOOK. 



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SOLD BY 

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3838 OLIVE STREET 

ST. LOUIS, MO. 

PRICE, $1.50 



Where garments are purchased ready 
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There is no chalk used with the Parisian Gauge. The employment of chalk or crayon has always been 
highly objectionable for several excellent reasons: ( 1 ) Crayon must be used with caution on some goods as it is often- 
times extremely difficult of removal. (2) Chalk marks are practically indistinguishable on white goods. <3) How- 
ever, the real shortcoming lies in the fact that it is with extreme rarity that you do not have to go over your skirts three 
or four times before obtaining anything like satisfactory results. The reason is obvious: A woman being fitted will 
invariably settle to one side, so to speak; she throws her weight on one limb, and Just as sure as she does, just so sure 
will the dress goods approach nearer the floor on the side on which she lowers the hip. In chalking that side of the 
skirt bottom you will find that in assuming an erect position, the skirt being drawn up will carry your crayon mark 
higher than you intended. This technique we have just descrilxd is very faulty and should never be employed. 

What is toprevent a woman settling, as you say, with the Parisian Gauge? In the first place, the bottom of 
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ufested in the sudden bagginess or looseness of the skirt between the hip and the hem you are turning (bottom 
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ensable for home dressmaking as the sewing machine. Children's garments 
autifully hung with the Gauge, as the curved arm may be raised to any height from the floor. 
This Gauge is handsomely nickel plated and enameled and is an ornament to the sewing 
It is 10 inches high, graduated in V2 and 1 inch scales; weighs about 2 pounds, and will not 
tip over while in use. 




^ 



WEIDEL'S INSTRUCTION BOOK. 



Copyrighted by Weidel Ladies' 
Tailoring College Co., 1914. 



WBIDEL'S INSTRUCTION BOOK. 



WEIDEL'S 

INSTRUCTION BOOK 

FOR 
Those Using WeideFs Combined Tailor Square and Curves 



A COMPLETE TREATISE 



ON 



Drafting Ladies^ and Children's Garments by the 
Square and Curves Combined 



By J. A. WEIDEL. 

ST. LOUIS, MO. 

1914 



WEIUEL'S INSTRUCTION BOOK. 



^kt^ 



The drafts herein contained are mostly foundation 
drafts, as we thought it best not to give many fancy 
drafts. As the styles are continually changing and we 
believe it best for the beginner to learn to draft a 
good FOUNDATION and then make such changes as 
often as the style demands. 



)CU4(I6781 



JUL 19 1915 



WEIDEL'S INSTRUCTION BOOK. 



TABLE OF CONTENTS— (Second Edition), 



Taking- Measures by the WEIDEJ. aYSTKM 11 to 

Impoltaiit to all who use WKIDEL SYSTEM 

How to make a Sweep 

,^ Rules 

f^ Draft No. 1. Instructions for drafting Shirt Waist... 16 

(V Draft No. 50. Changes for Over-Erect Form IS 

5<r-. Draft No. 51. Changes for Stooping Round-Shouldered 

^--5 Form 20 

■^ Draft No. r,:!. Ladies' Shirt Pattern 22 

V Draft No. 53. Japanese Kimono with Straight Front 

1^ and Back 24 

Draft No. 54. Kimono Waist with Set-in Sleeve 26 tc 

Draft No. 55. Middy Blouse 30 

Draft No. 56. Four-Piece Princess Slip 32 tc 

Draft No. 57. One-Piece Coat 36 



raft No. 5!). Semi-Fitting Coat, with Seams 

armhole 

raft No. 611. Eaton .Jacket with dart on shoul 



Draft No. 61. 
Draft No. 62. 
Draft No. 63. 
Draft No. 64. 
Draft No. 65. 
Draft No. 66. 
Draft No. 67. 
Draft No. 68. 
Dra"ft No. 69. 
Draft No. 70. 
Draft No. 71. 
Draft No. 72. 
Draft No. 73. 
Draft No. 74. 
Draft No. 75. 
Draft No. 76. 
Draft No. 77. 
Draft No. 7S. 



of 



47 

Kimono Coat 4S to 51 

Peg-Top Skirt with 2 draperies 52-53 

Two and Three-Piece Skirt 54-55 

Four and Five-Gore Skirt 56-57 

Six and Seven-Gore Skirt 58-59 

Plain Drawer Pattern 60-61 



Mar 



5h Sle 



.62-63 



Sleeve for One-Piece Coat 64-65 

Ladies' Shirt Sleeve 64-65 

One-Piece Sleeve, with Dart below Elbow. 66-67 

Shirtwaist Sleeve with Small Top 66-67 

Fancy Flat Sailor Collar 68-69 

Turndown Collar for Short-Neck Person. 68-69 

High Rolling Collar 70-71 

Crush Collar 70-71 

Standing Collar 70-71 

Neck Band 70-71 



TABLE OF CONTENTS— (First Edition). 



Draft No. 2. 

Draft No. 3. 

Draft No. 4. 

Draft No. ."). 

Draft No. 6. 

Draft No. 7. 



Draft No. 
Draft No. 
Draft No. 
Draft No. 
Draft No. 
Draft No. 
Draft No. 
Draft No. 



Tight Waist or Princess 7\ to S2 

Special Measure Sheet 83 

Tight Waist with Bias Dart and 

Straight Front 84 to 87 

Tight Waist with 2 underarm pieces 

for large forms 88 to 92 

Tight-fitting Coat with Curved Front. .92 to 96 

A WORD ABOUT OUR COLLEGE 97 

gemi-Fitting or Half-Fitting Coat. . .98 to 101 
Double-Breasted Box Coat with Shawl 

Collar 102 to 104 

AGENTS WANTED EVERYWHERE 105 

CHANGES FOR STOOPING AND OVER- 
ERECT FORMS 106 to 109 

Single-Breasted Prince Chap Coat .. 106 to 109 

Waist for Small Child 110 

Child's Sleeve 

Tight-fltting Sleeve 

Bishop Sleeve Small Top 

Bell or Wing Sleeve with Small Toi 

Shirtwaist Sleeve 

Mutton Sle 



Draft No. 


17. 


Half-Circular Cape, 
on Shoulder . . . 


Draft No. 


IS. 


Fitted Cape with Se 


Draft No. 


19. 


Full Circular Skirt 


Draft No. 


20. 


Near Circular Skirt 


Draft No. 


21. 


Seven-Gore Divided 



ith Dart 

1 Over Shoulder 



Dr 


aft No. 


Draft No. 


Di 


■aft No. 


Di 


■aft No. 


Di 


■aft No. 


Dl 


■aft No. 


Draft No. 


Dl 


■aft No. 



110- 


111 


Draft No. 


112- 


113 


Draft No. 


114- 


115 


Draft No. 


114- 


115 


Draft No. 


116- 


117 


Draft No. 


116- 


117 


Draft No. 






Draft No. 


118- 


119 


Draft No. 


118- 


119 


Draft No. 


120- 


121 


Draft No. 


,122- 
124- 


125 


Draft No. 
Draft No. 



Apron Front 



Nine-Gore Flare Skirt 130-131 

Eleven-Gore Skirt for Corpulent 

form 132 to 134 

Ad for Skirt Gauge 135 

Thirteen-Gore Skirt with Tucks run- 
ning to nothing 136-137 

Nine-Gore Princess Skirt 138-139 

Nineteen-Gore Kilt Skirt 140-141 

Stock Collar for Short Neck 142-143 

Plain Stock Collar 142-143 

Military Collar .142-143 

Standing Collar with slight Flare 

at top 142-143 

High Standing Collar with Extreme 

naring top 142-143 

Storm Collar 142-143 

Collar for Garments closing at throat. 144-145 

Neck Band for Shirt Waist 144-145 

Turndown Collar for Shirtwaist 144-145 

Circular Cuff 144-145 

Half Circular Cuff 144-145 

Plain Cuff 144-145 

Sailor or Buster Brown Collars 146-147 

Plaited Waist 148-149 

To Cut a Flounce 148 

:. Shows Patterns Cut and Spread 

on Goods 150-151 

Tucked Sleeve 152-153 

How to Make Fancy Plaited Skirt. ..154 to 157 

A Cutter's Dream 158 

College Ad 159 



10 



WIOIDKI/S INSTRUCTION J300K. 




J. A. WEIDEL 

Author and Inventor 

The Author in presenting this, his second edition, has the points numbered instead of 
lettered, which enables one to readily find any certain point desired in the instructions given. 

This i)lan has advantages over the lettered plan, and we believe will meet Avith ap- 
proval, especially by those who prefer the numbered plan. The student will readily see ad- 
vantages and the simplicity by which one can find any given point. In the second edition many 
new points are brought out that will enable the student to produce any of the prevailing 
styles, no matter how often they may change, as the lines given in both the First and Second 
ciition are suited for the SLENDER FORM AS WELL AS THE STOUT FIGURE. 

By giving the TWO editions in one book, the cutter can find the various lines used as 
styles may change. 

For the cutter who prefers a short-measure system of producing a pattern, either for 
Custom Tailoring or READY-TO-WEAR TRADE, we advise using WEIDEL 'S SELF- 
BALANCING AND SELF-GRADING METHOD of DRAFTING, which is the result of many 
years ' experimenting by the Author. This method adapts itself to the different variations of 
the form, no matter how large or small, or what their attitude may be. (See Draft No. 78). 
A trial will convince the advanced student, as well as the beginner, that it will produce a 
well-balanced pattern either for the ERECT, NORMAL or STOOPING FORMS. 

The student wall find many new ideas in tliis edition, that do not require a set of 
GRADED SCALES, but a few simple measures will produce any size pattern desired. THE 
AVEIDEL SYSTEM used for producing these patterns, does not require any FREE-HAND 
DRAWING, the square does the FIGURING, and with the lettered and numbered curves on 
the square one can make any desired curve with a LEAD PENCIL. 

WEIDEL 'S COMBINED TAILOR' SQUARE AND CURVES is the invention of the 
Author, and is the result of many years' experience in using garment drafting devices, and all 
who study the contents of this book and system used for producing same, will derive much 
benefit therefrom. 

J. A. WEIDEL, The Author. 



WEIDEL'S INSTRUCTION BOOK. 



11 





LONG-SIDE-HE ASURE 



Taking Measures by Weidel's System. 

To the bcjiiiiiK'r, as well as the experienced, 
we achase all measures to be taken vdih much 
care, being careful not to draw tape line too 
tight, or leave it too loose. Measures should 
be taken over a soft waist, not a starched or 
stiff one. See that the person is properly cor- 
seted. 

First place a narrow strap with buckle 
around waist and draw strap to tightness the 
band is to be. See that it follows natural waist- 
line. 

Begin by taking all the round measures first, 
standing back of person. 



Neck — Taken around the neck-band. 

Bust — Over the fullest part of bust in front, 
and up high in back over fullest part of shoul- 
der blades, not too tight or loose. 



Waist — Just above the strap at waist-line. 

Hip — Around the hip about 5 inches below the 
strap in front, and 6 inches at side and back, 
keeping on a level with floor. 

Long-Side — From waist-line or bottom of strap 
on left side on a line with front of armhole, 
around to back of neck, then down to waist- 
line on right side to bottom of strap. (In ap- 
plying this measure, use only half of the 
measure on draft). 

Over-Shoulder, Right Side — From waist-line in 
back, over the shoulder, touching a point 
about 2 inches from end of shoulder, then 
down to waist line in front. (Always draft 
by the highest side). 

Over-Shoulder, Left Side — Taken in same man- 
ner as right side, from waist-line in back to 
waist-line in front. (Do not take these meas- 
ures over the fullest part of bust). 



12 



WEIDEL'S INSTRUCTION BOOK. 



DEPTH OF ARMHOI.E. 





LONG-BACK-MEASURE 



Long-Back — From waist-line about 3 inches 
from center back on left side up side of neck, 
ai'ound front of neck, then down right side to 
waist-line in back. 

Height of Bust — From front of neck to fullest 
part of bust. 

Length of Front — From front of neck to bot- 
tom of strap or waist-line. 

Width of Chest — From armhole to armhole, 
about 4 inches down from neck. 

Under-Arm Measure — From pit or level of 
armhole down to bottom of strap at waist- 
line ; be careful and not get it too long. 

Depth of Armhole — Place 60-inch end of tape 
measure mider left arm, as high up as it will 
go, then bring it straight across back and 
under right arm, keeping tape measure on 
level with bottom of armholes, and while in 
this position measure from collar-bone down 



to top of tape line. 

Length of Back — From collar bone at l)ack of 
neck to bottom of strap at waist line. 

Width of Back — From armhole to armhole, 
across back about half way between the top 
of shoulder and bottom of armhole. Be care- 
ful not to get this measure too narrow. You 
cannot depenrl on the waist the person is 
wearing. If incfci-icd, the width of back can 
be taken as lollows: Place a pencil under 
each arm and measure from one to the other; 
in applying it on draft use this measure on 
bust line 5, but do not deduct the inch. 

Length of Shoulder — From collar-bone at back 
of neck down to point of shoulder, being caic 
ful not to take this measure past the shoulder 
point. 

Armhole — Around armhole about ] inch frdiii 
point of shoulder. 



WEIDEL'S INSTRUCTION BOOK. 



13 




BUST 



Around Elbow — Around olbow with arm slight- 
.ly bent to give ease. 

Around the Hand — Over fullest part of liand, 
thumb and all. 

Inseam of Sleeve — From pit of armhole to 
wrist joint, with arm hanging straight down. 

Length of Skirt Front, Right Side, Back, Left 
Side-Skirt measures are all taken from bot- 
tom of strap to floor. Be sure to measure 
over fullest part of hip at side. 



In takinj 
form. 



Notes. 

measures alwavs make a note of 



Notice if figure is round-shouldered or stoop 
ing, normal or over-erect, large in front below 
waist-line, large shoulder-blades, large hips 
toward back or perhaps very flat in back below 
waist line. This latter case would indicate a 
largeness in front below waist-line. 

Remember, you must put the goods where 
the tigure requires it. 

Draft to the measures, and not to the dress 
over which the measures are taken. Remember 
that the Long Side and Over-Shoulder meas- 
ures must not be taken over the fullest part of 
bust. 

The Long-Side and Long-Back measures are 
used to determine the attitude. 



14 



WEIDEL'S INSTRUCTION BOOK. 



OUR NEW ONE PIECE TAILOR'S SQUARE AND CURVES COMBINED 




Important to All Who Use Weidel's 
Square and Curves. 

In using' tliis system, first familiarize your- 
self with the letters and numbers used in mak- 
ing the different curves. Then notice the ar- 
rangement of the divisions on the division, or 
arrow side of square, which are used to quickly 
divide any given number used in drafting ail 
kinds of garments ; thus doing away with fig- 
uring usually required in systems or drafting 
machines. 

On the hand or face side of square the inches 
are arranged so you measure from either end 
without turning the square around. The center 
row (see large figures) begin at left-hand end 
of square. The small figures at bottom row are 
half-inches. Then along the right-hand end you 
will find the division in fourths. 

Line 1 on square is the first line near hand 
running in the direction of long arm of square. 
(See small hole near hand). 

Line 2 croses 2 small holes on left-hand end 
of square. 

Line .3 is square up from line 2, near lower 
front armhole curve. 

The letters on face or hand side of square in- 



dicate the different curves re((uired in garment 
drafting. 

Numbers on Ijottom or arrow side indicate 
the opposite curves. These curves do away with 
frcr-hand drawing required by most systems 
and very difficult to the beginner. 

Ercrif curve is m.adf- ivith a lead pencil. 

Notice — Use square with hand or arrow 
])ointing as indicated. The hand is on the face 
side, and tlic ai-row on the bottom or division 
sidr, of s(|u;n-c. 

_ Wlicii divisions ai-e refcnvd to in draft, find 
size wanted in the division nicntioiicd, thus: If 
a draft reads 'I'l in 4ths, dy waist iiicasui-c in 
4ths, find 22 in the division of 4ths on ri/ilif- 
Jtand end of square. Thus you can readily find 
number in whatever division you desire without 
the difficult figuring usuallv re(iuired. 



How to Make a Sweep. 

Sweeps are used more or less in all drafting. 

First sew a loop IV.' inches long in the 60-inch 
end of tape measure. 

Now place pencil jDoint in loop and hold with 
right hand at point from which you wish the 
sweep to begin; also hold tape in left hand at 
pivoting point; now make sweep forward or 
back as per instructions. 



WEIDEL'S INSTRUCTION BOOK. 15 









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73 



Weidel's Self-Balancing and Self-Grading Method 




Copyright May 1, 1914, by Weidel Ladies' Tailoring College Co 



74 WEIUEL'SINSTIUTCTIOK 1500K. 



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75 



Weidel's Self-Balancing and Self-Grading Method 




Copyright May 1. 1914, by Weidel Ladies' Tailoring College Co. 



76 



WEIDEL'S INSTRUCTION BOOK. 



72 — Prom 71 is I14 inclics. P ciu-ve at .'Ui, 
curve through 72 to V on sciuni-c. 

73 — From 72 is I14 inches. 

74 — From 73 is 2 inches, or width desired. 

J curve at 74, cui've to 66. 

75 — Left-hand corner of square at 73, long 
arm touching 69, square up and make 75, one 
and one-lialf inches, or width desired. 

24 curve at 75, curve to 7(1. 



Notice — Proportion Front length sliould l)e 
about li/. inches more than back length to waist 
line. 

For every inch the front is shorter than 
back length, raise dot 22 one-fourth of the 
amount. Example — If back is 17 and front 14, 
raise 22 one-foufth of the amount, which is % 
inch. For every inch the front is longer than 
the proportion front, lower dot 22 one-fourth 
the amount. 



1 HE drafts herein contained are mostly foun- 
dation drafts, as we thought it best not to give 
many fancy drafts. As the stjdes are continually 
changing and Ave lielieve it best foi* the beginner 
to learn to draft a good FOUNDATION and then 
make such changes as often as the style demands. 



WEIDEL'S INSTRUCTION BOOK. 77 



PREFACE 

In placing this invention before tlie pul)lic we desire to say for tlie benefit of the inex- 
perienced as well as the experienced, the drafts and diagrams given herein are based on 
actual measure and proportion combined. 

We have endeavored wherever possible to use actual measure and apply same on 
draft as taken on person. The lines and curves are placed according to style; and best judg- 
ment of the inventor, and should anyone prefer to place dilferent lines from those given, this 
can be done according to the individual taste and not affect the fitting points as lon^ as the 
location of the frame work and measurements are not changed. 

It is not our intention to give many fancy drafts in this edition, as the tlat foundation 
draft is the basis of all styles of garments, and all fancy patterns are taken from them. For 
this reason we deem it ad\'isable for the student to learn to produce a PERFECT-FITTING- 
FOUNDATION before attempting to take up the more advanced studii>s. 

The drafts are the results of many years' experience with \'arious actual measure sys- 
tems, and have been thoroughly tested on forms of all sizes and shapes. The AUTHOR hav- 
ing done his own fitting had the advantage of seeing the results of his own jjatterns, thus gain- 
ing tile aetnal experience every successful cutter so much desires. 

By constantly working with different systems and drafting patterns of all kinds we 
must gain the knowledge we need and sinii)lify our work to save time, which means nuich to 
all who wish to succeed in any profession or trade. 

It should be every ambitious person's desire to overcome difficulties which, are bound 
to come up in every line of work, and especially so in designing women 's garments, as the 
styles are constantly changing. 

To be a successful cutter or designer you MUST STUDY and improve not only in your 
own discoveries, but learn all you can from every publication that will advance your interest. 
The wide-awake cutter will readily grasp any good points that will further his interest; re- 
member, Ave often learn from our students. 

Some prefer to the longest route to obtain the same results, but to the more progressive 
person who desires to advance with the times, we believe this invention will be of interest, 
as the SQUARE AND CURVES being combined in one piece simplifies matters and produces 
more graceful curves in much less time than c:in be obtained in the usual frfM> hand methods, 
as no gui(h' lines are required, as is customary in the old way. 

By this invention the person of average intelligence can learn to draft and design in 
half the time usually required and the lines are as perfect as the most experienced could 
produce. 

By carefully studying each and every draft as given the ambitious cutter who is inter- 
ested in the advancement of the science of garment cutting, will l)e more than rewarded with 
the results obtained. 

From the foundation di-afts herein given you can i)r( 
ter how often the styles may change, as the flat draft is the 

We hope all who study its pages will find food for 
rapidly improve with more experience. 

J. A. WEIDEL, The Authoi 

Copyrighted by Weidel & Webster 
Tailoring College, January, 1910 



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WEIDEL'S INSTRUCTION BOOK. 



83 



PATTERNS cff ALL KINDS CUT TO ORDER 
FROM ANY FASHION BOOKS 

SPECIAL DISCOUNT TO DRESSMAKERS 




SPECIAL MEASURE SHEET 

To use cut out the squares and write through the holes. 

NECK BUST WAIST HIP 





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LONG SIDE 


OVER RIGHT 
SHOULDER 


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A Word About Our College 

Pupils desiring to do their own sewing or make garments for others can do so at the following 
rates. We teach every branch of Dressmaking and Ladies' Tailoring. Each pupil receives individual 
instructions, no classes formed. 

You can begin at any time. College open the entire year. Instructions daily from 9 to 5 p. m., 
except Saturday 9 to 4. 




OUR TERMS 

TUITION FEE ALWAYS PAYABLE IN ADVANCE 



Not less than ten days sold to any pupil. 



FULL COURSE, either system and 45 days les- 
sons, consists of instructions in Cutting, Fitt- 
ing, Basting, Stitching, Pressing, Boning, 
Draping and Finishing; with system for draft- 
ing all kinds of ladies' and children's gar- 
ments, $25.00. 

TUITION is always payable in advance. 

No extra charge for patterns it work is finished in school 



FULL COURSE system and Instruction Book, 
45 days' lessons Drafting and Sewing, $25.00 

DRESS MAKERS' COURSE, 12 drafting les- 
sons system and Instruction book $15.00 

System and large Instruction book 10.00 

10 days' lessons without system • • 5.00 



Weidel Ladies' Tailoring College Co. 



ST. LOUIS. 



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AGENTS WANTED EVERYWHERE 

We appoint agents to sell and teach Weidel's Combined Tailor's Square and Curves, 
and Instruction Books. Special rates to agents. 

No Territory Rights Sold 

Why pay for territory rights, when you can sell and teach the Weidel's System and In- 
struction Books, which is the latest up-to-date system, now being used by many of the best 
Dressmakers and Ladies' Tailors throughout the United States 

Do You Want To Travel 

Or take charge of a Branch School ? We give you a special training that will enable you to draft 
any and all styles of patterns for ladies and children, no matter how large or small the measure- 
ments are. We also keep you posted in all the late styles as long as you are representing us. 

Some of the Many Advantages the Weidel System Has That Are Worth In- 
vestigating Before Purchasing Some Other System 

WE Make all the curves with a pencil, by the curves on the square. No freehand 

curves required with this system. 

MAKE Drafts of every style of garments, no matter how often styles may change; also 

large Book of Instructions for reference. 

YOUR Garments fit when drafted by the Weidel System of measurement, which adapts 

itself to the different attitudes of the form. 

WORK Done by this system saves the customer time, as well as yourself, as the measure- 
ments produce perfect fitting garments. 

A Person need not be good at figuring, as the square does the figuring and applies the 

measures. 

PLEASURE Awaits those who receive a thorough course in Drafting and Designing of Gar- 
ments, as good cutters are always in demand at salaries from $20.00 to $50.00 
per week. 



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WEIDEL'S INSTRUCTION BOOK. 



125 



Measures for Draft No. 19 

22 Waist 38 Hip 40 Front 41 1.. Side 41 Back 



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Measures for Draft No. 20 

22 Waist 38 Hip 40 Front 41', Side 41 Back 




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WEIDEL'S INSTRUCTION BOOK. 



129 



GORED SKIRTS ARE DRAFTED 
AS FOLLOWS: 

Noficc — In drafting goretl skirts, begin by 
drawing a line at top of skirt (see line 2), tLe 
length of liip measnre in halves. This line is 
used to divide the skirt into the nninJMn- of 
gores desired. 

As the nine-gore is the fonndation for all 
gored skirts, we begin as follows : 

First, determine the width of front gore de- 
sired at hip line, which will depend upon the 
prcvaiHng style, in this case 21/4 inches is used. 



or use division that is one less than number 
gores wanted; if you are drafting a nine-gore 
division in eighths for front gore; then make 
l)ack gore one inch more than front (314 inches 
in this case) ; divide the remainder into three 
equal parts. This is not a fixed rule, as some 
cutters prefer to divide as follows: After 
marking off the front width as above, (livi(h- 
the remainder into four equal parts for a nine- 
gore. 

Notice — This plan of adding flare does away 
with the usual methods of tracing out patterns, 
thus saving imich valuable time to tlie busy 
cutter. 



Measures for Draft No. 21 




130 



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WEIDEL'S INSTRUCTION BOOK. 



131 



scjuai-e at AX, and long arm touching EX ; now 
draw lines 28 and 29. "^ 

^iake a dot half way between AX and FX, 
and square up Y2 inch, then draw lines to star. 

AX to GX is 1/4 inch more than AX to Z (see 
dotted line). 



Draw curved line 32 from A through E, H, 
I, N, 0, T, U, Z and GX. 

The space between lines 6, 7, 10, 11, 14, 15, is 
thrown away and is not used in the skirt. 

In cutting material all seams must be al- 
lowed as the |)atterns are drafted to the exact 
measurements. 



Measures for Draft No. 22 

22 Wai8t 38 Hip 40 Front 41 1., Side 41 Back 




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Measures for Draft No. 23 

Waist 45 Hip 41 Front 40 1.. Side 40 Back 



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WEIDEL'S INSTRUCTION BOOK. 



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SOLD BY 



Weidel Ladies' Tailoring College Co 



3838 OLIVE STREET 

ST. LOUIS, MO. 

PRICE, $1.50 



Where garments are purchased ready 
made, it will ofttimes save its 
cost in the alteration of a 
single skirt. 



THIS little device is somethini that every woman should have in her 
home. Tiresome fittings and refillings are avoided by ustas the 
Parisian Gauge, Six minutes is all that is necessary to hang your 
skirl perfectly so thai its length is uniform and the same distance from the 
Boor at all poiots. There is no feature in the making of a skirt 
so important as seeing that the bottom does not hang lower io one 
place than in another, and at the same time nothing more discourag- 
ing than the number of (ilUngs so often necessary to secure saUsfactory 
results. What a delightful relief and pleasant experience to accompUsh 



It 

Will 
Last 



Life 
Time 



Patented 
July 17. 

1906. 




four fillings of from 20 e 



in one short fitting a result that heretofore oftlimK has been impossible 
three-quarters of an hour each. 

The secret of the immense popularity which this Gauge enjoys is due to a narrow eight-inch arm, curved In 
conformity with the natural drop of the skirt, over which the hem is easily turned and pinned as the person turns 
around. This arm is raised or lowered on the graduated upright rod to any height desired. When one hip is larger 
than the other, as is singulariy true of most women, the use of the Gauge is here keenly appreciated, as no error can 
possibly result, inasmuch as you are measuring from the floor up and the skirt must tte an equal distance from the 
carpet at all points, front, sides and back. 

Tbere Is no clialk used with the Parisian Gauge. The employment of chalk or crayon has always been 
highly objectionable for several excellent reasons: (1) Crayon must be used with caution on some goods as it is often- 
times extremely difficult of removal. (2) Chalk marks are practically indistinguishable on white goods. (3) How- 
ever, the real shortcoming lies in the fact that it is with extreme rarity that you do nol have to go over your skirts three 
or four times before obtaining anything like satisfactory results. The reason is obvious: A woman being fitted wUI 
invariably settle to one side so to speak; she throws her weight on one limb, and lust as sure as she does, just so sure 
will the dress goods approach nearer the floor on the side on which she lowers the hip. In chalking that side of the 
skirl bottom you will find that in assuming an erect position, the skirl being drawn up will carry your crayon mark 
higher than you intended. This technique we have just described is very faulty and should never be employed. 

What is to prevent a woman settling, as you say, with the Parisian Gauge? In the first place, the bottom of 
the skirt is firmly fixed by being pinned over the curved arm, which effectually prevents the bottom of the skirt from 
descending any lower; consequently should she incline to the side, as is so often the case, her faulty position isinstantly 
nanifested in the sudden bagginess or looseness of the skirt between the hip and the hem you are turning (bottom 
! FIXED, while the hip descends, shortens the distance between 
points, the hip and the arm, with the resulting bagging). Her 
, therefore, may be corrected instantly. The Parisian Gauge is 
indispensable for home dressmaking as the sewing machine. Children's garments 
Qg with the Gauge, as the curved arm may be raised to any height from thefloor. 
This Gauge is handsomely nickel plated and enameled and is an ornament to the sewing 
room. It is 10 inches high, graduated in «! and 1 inch scales; weighs about 2 pounds, and will nol 
tip over while In use. 




^ 



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WEIDEL'S INSTRUCTION BOOK 









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WEIDEL'S INSTRUCTION BOOK. 



137 



■'The amount to spread pattern at top de- terials it is best to spread pattern until the 

pends on the wci-lit of material to be cut; on front edge of each piece is on the straight of 

light-weight material it is l)est not to spread material, 

pattern more than oiir iiicli, but on heavy ma- — -. 



Measures for Draft No. 24 

22 Waist 40 Front 41 Back .3S Hip 41i._, Side 



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WEIDEL'S INSTRUCTION BOOK. 



139 



Draw line 27 with L curve at star. 

Draw line 28 Avith 9 curve at star. 

I'lace rule ^A inch back of K, touching star 
and draw^ line 29, 8 inches above waist line. 

The third piece on bust division being 41/. 
inches, place half of this amount on each side 
of line 29. 

Draw line 30 with K curve at star. 

Draw line 31 with 8 curve at star. 

Place I'ule 1 inch back of O, touching star, 
and draw line 32, 8 inches above waist line. 

The foui'th piece on bust division being 3% 
iiielies, place half on each side of line 32. 

Draw line .■!2 with K curve at star. 

Diaw line 34 with 8 curve at star. 

Scjuare line 35 through V by line 14. 

S inches above V, measure forward 3 inches, 
tlie width of last piece. 

Draw line 36 with L curve at star. 

Mark i)rincess any height above waist line 



desired. 

For bottom of skirt draw line 'M through 
points A, E, I, M, Q, U and (,).\. 

If flare is wanted add according to draft No. 
22 for nine-gore skirt. 

For inverted plait make same as draft No. 22 
for nine-gore skirt. 

For habit hack as follows : 

First mark olT inverted plait, then make U to 
QX two-thirds the width of inveited plait. 

PX is % inch back of S. 

Draw straight line from Q.\ to PX; then 
continue curved line from P.\ to V, with A 
curve' at V. (See dotte.l line). 

Notice — In cutting material for ]tlaiu goods 
lay the front edge of each i)iece on the straiglit 
of goods, for striped goods lay the center of 
each gore on a stripe. All seams nmst be al- 
lowed in cutting the material. 



Measures for Draft No. 25 



Hip 




140 






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WEIDELS INSTRUCTION IJOOK. 



141 



no 12. 

AVitli 11 curve at waist-line draw line :U into 
ne 12. 

With X ciii-ve at waist-liiic draw line ;!.■) into 
ne i:!. 

With 11 curve at Avaist line draw line :i() iutd 
ne l.-J. 

With () curve at waistdine draw line 157 into 
n." 14. 

With 12 curve at waistdike draw line oS into 
ne U. 



With () curve at waist-line draw line 89 into 
line 15. 

With 12 curve at waistdine draw line 40 info 
line l.-j. 

Xotic< — The iioods between i^ores is 
usually cut out so as not to make too nuicji 
thickness around hips (see lar^-e darts between 
front pieces). Tlie seams are placed wherever 
the selvedge edge comes in under a jdait. This 
depends on the Axddth of goods. 



Measures for Draft No. 26 

22 Waist 38 Hip 40 Front 40',. Side 41 Baok 



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A Word About Our College 

Pupils desiring to do their own sewing or make garments for others can do so at the following 
rates. We teach every branch of Dressmaking and Ladies' Tailoring. Each pupil receives individual 
instructions, no classes formed. 

You can begin at any time. College open the entire year. Instructions daily from 9 to 5 p. m., 
except Saturday 9 to 4. 




OUR TERMS 

TUITION FEE ALWAYS PAYABLE IN ADVANCE 



Not less than ten days sold to any pupil. 



FULL COURSE, either system and 45 days les- 
sons, consists of instructions in Cutting, Fitt- 
ing, Basting, Stitching, Pressing, Boning, 
Draping and Finishing; with system for draft- 
ing all kinds of ladies' and children's gar- 
ments, $25.00. 

TUITION is always payable in advance. 

No extra charge for patterns if work is finished in school 



FULL COURSE system and Instruction Book, 
45 days' lessons Drafting and Sewing, $25.00 

DRESS MAKERS' COURSE, 12 drafting les- 
sons system and Instruction book. . . $15.00 

System and large Instruction book 10.00 

10 days' lessons without system • 5.00 



Weidel Ladies' Tailoring College Co. 



ST. LOUIS. 



rf^' 



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INSTRUCTION BOOK FOR 



W^EIDEL'S 



Combined T<\iilor Square and Curves 



One Piece for [Drafting every size, shape or form 




]. A. WEIDEL 

Inventor 



The square used by 
all 
mechanics 



Every time 
You draw a line 
(You say that looks fine 
Ti.) be made in such a 
Shc^rt time because it was 
Drafted by 
WEinEL'S SQUARE AND CURVE COMBINE 
You needj not make any free hand curves 
Which are qu't-e trying to your nerves 
And wh^n your draft is al) complete 
Yo'u are delighted to know 
y()u accomplished the feat 
For some woi'l<J say it was made with a stencil 
And wonder I'OW it could be done with a pencil 




With the above invention you car "aft every style of Skirt, Coat, Waist, and Sleeve 
for Ladies and Children, and follows every fashion. 

WEIDEL LADIES' TAILORING COLLEGE CO. 

ST. LOUIS, MO. 



LIBRARY OF CONGRESS 





i05 Manchester Ave. 



LIBRARY OF CONGRESS 



013 964 938 2 



